Fourteen years ago Trattoria Morgana was a mediocre trat at best, serving up sturdy, if pedestrian, renditions of lasagna and beef tagliata. So when Julius Caesar suggested we opt for a meal, Lucullus was skeptical to say the least. How wrong can one man be?
Although tourists appear to have taken over Rome and some good restaurants have suffered, there are still gems to be found. Here are reviews of both kinds.